21 April 2011

Ciudad Perdida

16/04/11  The Lost City.  We've just spent 5 days treking throughout the Colombian rain forest in Parque Nacional Tayrona.  The purpose was to visit the site of an old Tayrona City, but just experiencing the rain forest was epic.

Generally it was incredibly hot and humid and it rained most afternoons.  On Day 1 we left a little late and were caught up in torrential rain - like on film sets.  We marched on through the mud and rivers like a scene out of Platoon.  Hardcore!

Up...

...Down... All the way.  Steep and sweaty!

Luckily the river was cold and when we had time we swam.  When we didn't have time we waded through the rapids, trying not to drop the camera or break our toes on the rocks.

We had a guide (Omar) with us, full of all the classic useful info (like the fern tattoo).  He was neccessary to negotiate and keep us safe from the bad guys.  The trip was quite pricey, but it turns out wads of cash went to paying off the farmers, native Tayronas, Government Military and the Paramilitary.  We didn't fund the FARC though. 
Ps. Colombian men love to walk round with their bellies out, John is still working on that one.

Each night we stayed in camps with roofs for rain and basic facilities.  Always on the river with a natural swimming pool and high dive rock to jump off :)

We had a cook (Jason) who stuffed us, made us hot chocolate in the morning and showed us the best rocks to jump off into the river.

We slept in Hammocks.

 Had some good folk in our group too :)

Who cares about leaf cutter ants?  Have you seen the size of that spider?! Mosquitos, mosquitos, mosquitos...

1 of 100.

The indigenous Tayronas seem to pretty much live an un-touched life in their Parque Nacional.  They have there own language, worship the sun and the moon and have Shamans to connect to the spiritual world. Their ancestors were the original inhabitants of the Ciudad Perdida, but they haven't built anything on that scale since. 

They wear only white and are tiny! (Although these two are actually kids.)

Mules.  Can carry up to 4 Graces each!

Morning jungle :)

On the afternoon of day 3 we set off up the thousand-something stairs up to the Ciudad.  Crazy like the Incas.

The Colombian government have left the site largely unrestored, worried that by removing the trees they may loose most of it to land slides.  It gives the place a spooky and undiscovered aura.

 Spooky.

There's a map.

An old overgrown Shaman hut.

And a sweet spot for an infinity pool ;)

Ciudad Perdida.

Group shot!  Seriously, smile (and nod, and do anything they ask!)

Los Gatos

Grace has met a lot of cats along the way. Keeps her entertained (and quiet, at least momentarily). They're also a nice reminder of  home :). You know, a permenant residence, where you can keep stuff, not in a backpack and you own more than 2 t-shirts and a week's worth of pants. Sigh.


14 April 2011

Sopas De Mama

12/04/11  Nice eatery, classic Colombian Soups.  Meat and Banana?!

Sancocho Bogotano.
COL 10.900 (over 3 pounds - Colombia ain´t that cheap!)

Colombia

11/04/11 We´re in Colombia!  Bogota, the capital, to be precise.  From Lima, we flew to Quito (didn´t make it out the airport so I don´t think we can put Equador on the list!), and then on to Medellin, Colombia.  Then...we went straight to the bus station and took an overnight to Bogota.  It was a long one.

So Bogota is COLD!  We are just North of the Equator (yep, back in the Northern Hemisphere:) and it´s base layers and raincoats :)  When will this exotic 9 month travelling suntan kick in!  We´re still in the Andes at 2600m.  Can´t wait to hit the coast!

Grace is FED UP!  But discovered shopping warms the cockles. Nice bag ;)

Plaza (Simon) Bolivar.  Really, no sun? Really?

Mmm...egg.

Man renting his mobiles (on chains) by the minute.  It would be nice if you could climb in his coat for privacy.

Loads of nice cafes with HOT drinks and sugary cakes :)

Museo Del Oro.  The gold museum was really cool.  Amazing pre-Colombian, pre-Spanish (old) collection and awesome designs of figures and symbols.  We also visited the Botero Gallery to see some art.

09 April 2011

Besos Before Bed

Besos means kisses in Spanish.  They are full of fluffy marshmallowness and we visit the shop every night before bed.
60 Centivos.

Huanchaco

05/04/11  We were tempted up here by our Bristol friend John who's been living in the Pacific fishing town for a year'ish.  It was a nice time :) Chilling at the beach, in the town and at Hostel Lily, surfing big cold waves and learning to Salsa (Salsa is not a verb! But who cares?).  Thanks to Delia for taking us into Trujillo to her Salsa school!  (John has sexy hip shaking issues).

The Pier.  There is a sweet left hand reef break all down the beach to the right.  John struggled as it got quite big and he handn't had to use his arms for many months!  Stuck at it though and bagged some waves :) The water is cold!

Classic reed fishing boats, classic car.

Apparently it's nearly winter.  Boo.  Lets go to the Northern Hemisphere on Sunday :)  Misty with sunburny spells.

Pelicans.  Not quite as bright eyed and bushy tailed as in Sydney, but BIG none the less.  They love bombing down the line and pulling out before it closes out :)


Wishmeam = Seaside.

Fight!  There are elections in Peru this weekend.  All the bars are shut. Makes for a sober judgement?

Classico

Hand made in Argentina.

Always On A Bus

04/04/11  We are officially tired of buses.  12 hrs is the norm around here, 24 doesn't even make us flinch.  But how many more!!!  If you look at a map, we've nearly completed a figure of 8 over South America by bus.  It feels like it.

We headed from Cuzco to Lima (nice evening in Miraflores) and then up to Trujillo.  Peru is not just mountains and jungle, it's also Pacific coast and desert. Another hot and stuffy road block on the way to Trujillo.

Salomon XA Pro

An adventure shoe.  I've been running, climbing, trekking and cycling in these bad boys, and they can do it all!  Still in one piece too.

03 April 2011

Machu Picchu

01/04/11 (7 months!)

We arrived at 6am in a heavy rain cloud, not much to see :(  At 7 we walked up to Huayna Picchu, hoping to break through the cloud.  The plan worked and it started to clear up when we reached the top, leaving spooky views of the Inca city between the clouds.

Huaynu Picchu, the big mountain in the background of the classic shot (see below). It´s unbelievable what these people built.  You don´t need a tour guide to learn a little about their mentality!  Think paths, steps, terraces and houses on the edge of vertical cliffs.  Unreal!

Terraces on Huaynu Picchu.  For growing food and stabalising the mountain for building foundations.  Yep, a long way down if you slip.

No time for vertigo and wobbly legs. (Of which Grace had both)

Here it is!  Very happy the sun came out late morning :)  Wow.

The planning and building work is epic.  Great to romp around exploring for hours :)

To Machu Picchu (The Long Way Round)

30/03/11 In the interest of adventure, we took a round about rural route from Cusco to Machu Picchu.  A 6 hour local bus took us up steep forested valleys, clinging to the tight hair-pin bends until Sants Maria.  From Santa Maria we shared a series of collectivos (minibus/taxis) up and down the most sketchy roads that could ever cling to quickly eroding mountain sides! The reason there was a series of collectivos is that we had to walk across several landslides that had swept the road away, and find another car on the otherside to take us on (to the next landslide!). Bad bad bad.  We finally arrived safely in Santa Teresa that evening.  From Santa Teresa we walked to Aguas Calientes (the base town for Machu Picchu) via roads, bridges, pull systems(!) and train track.  It was an entertaining journey :)  and with epic scenery all around.

Road from Santa Maria to Santa Teresa.

Landslide over the road.

We had to walk straight up it to find a car on the road above.

Walking from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes;  There are a few of these pully system river crossings, so we had a go!  Made extra scary by the rainy season river boiling below.

Following the tracks.

See through wings.

Mountain with waterfall coming out of it, from the inside?!

Arrival into Aguas Calientes. The river looked like a natural disaster.